Strange Animal Parts

I will admit, I like to sample strange animal parts. I think the complex flavour of most offal adds an almost primal dimension to tastes we associate with "meaty" or "gamey". So I could not really pass up the chance to sample that French classic, veal kidneys in a brandied creamed sauce, when I saw it on a menu today.

Onroute from sussing out the 20-minute drive between Calistoga (where my hotel is) and the Culinary Institute of America (where I start my course tomorrow), I decided to stop at Bistro Jeanty at Yountville for dinner, where I ordered those veal kidneys.

Now if you have ever had pork kidneys, you will know what strong tasting means. Pork kidneys are so strong in flavour they have to be soaked in salted water overnight to rid them of the urea-ry (for lack of a better word) smell and taste. But prepared well, the flavour and texture are superb, rich and complex. I happen to be a fan of that disappearing Hokkien heritage dish of highly acquired tastes, yeo chee mee sua (braised pork kidneys with wheat vermicelli in broth) - my late grandmother had a kick-ass recipe which she unfortunately did not manage to pass on to any of her children.

Veal kidneys, on the other hand, are a lot milder. I would almost describe the taste as sweet and delicate, a slightly gamier version of sweetbreads, and the texture somewhat like firm mushrooms. Deelish!